IN STYLE

July 2008
Kitchen Confidential….Phil Spence

By Victoria Moss

Kent On Sunday

Sundays are about long drives in the country, enjoying the country views and looking forward to a hearty meal. But it is increasingly difficult to find places that ' serve food in the evening and have an extensive selection of dishes still on the menu when you arrive at 7pm starving and full of hope. The Red Lion in Wingham will not only fill a hole but will leave you eager to return so you can enjoy the other dishes.
It has the chocolate box charm that makes you feel like you are in the heart of the countryside.
It is quaint but not dirty like so many other old establishments that think to clean cobwebs would be like transforming the building.
When I dined at the restaurant last week with my other half we had our drinks and menus carried through to the restaurant by a friendly chap who showed us to our table.
It was decorated with framed paintings and sketches on a culinary theme. Fairylights were twinkling from the potted trees in each corner and music was at the level where you could hold a conversation and not be disturbed After pondering what to have for my starter, I asked our waiter's advice and he recommended flat mushrooms stuffed with sweetly roasted garlic and cheddar cheese with a salad garnish that was very moorish.
My boyfriend, who is much more decisive, had warmed goat's cheese that was strong and crumbly, with salad and croutons.
For main course, I opted for the roast chicken with a divine sausagemeat, bacon and sage stuffing accompanied by fresh vegetables and roast potatoes.
The stuffing was out of this world and traditional roast dinners done well are a joy. There was certainly no microwaving of vegetables or 'plastic meat', although being a fussy madam I was disappointed to have more chicken leg than breast on my plate. Wanting something a little different, my partner chose tuna steak in a creamy tomato and caper sauce that he said was spicy and thick.
He did have to admit defeat and scrape the capers off midway through the dish because, they were so tangy.

' But he said it was a choice he would most definitely make again.
Puddings are always my favourite, but having two courses and feeling more than full I opted for a small bowl of Salcombe Dairy strawberry ice cream which was lusciously creamy and reminded me of a recent holiday in Salcombe, with its rolling hills and secluded bays.
Always willing to try to eat as much as Mr Creosote (but failing), it was freshly-made raspberry crème brulee for Simon. It was eaten as though it was the last pudding he would eat again - 10/10.
A glass of rosé and a beer made this great value for money (the bill for two came to £54.10) and we will return soon.
Alice Seaman, Gourmet Review
Kent on Sunday - Sept 25th 2005

Verdict: